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You’re a Green or Garden Witch!
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Review Highlights. Reviewed 25 February Reviewed 8 May Nicest witch and garden in the valley. Review of The Witches Garden.
More Show less. Date of experience: March See all 12 reviews. Reviews Write a Review. Filter reviews. During my teen years, I began my self-studies in herbalism — and like you, I was passionate about the topic, but overwhelmed with the information and a bit lost and lonely about how to continue. As a Plant Priestess, my passion is bringing us back to the sacred world of plants. I also earned a bachelor degree in Geography with an emphasis in Natural Resources Management and then on to earn a master degree in Environmental Studies.
I worked for a federally recognized shamanic Wiccan church for 6 months, interned with a cultural healing center with a tribal nation, and experienced other ways of knowing through ceremony, ritual, sacred fire circles, sweat lodges, and other activities. Sign up for the FREE lessons here! Webinar starts in: Day s. Hour s. It has happened before, and may happen again!
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So, you ask, how can I nourish my garden, self, and planet? The following represents a basic outline of techniques to get you started:. Composting will unlock the nutrients from the components you put in the compost pile. Begin by making a four-foot diameter place in your garden in part sun. Next, layer inches of carbon materials, "browns," with inches of nitrogen material, "greens. Like all of Nature's magic, however, you will find that intuition, observation, and experimentation provide the best results. The following describes the basic compost cauldron components and guidelines for their use:.
DO USE: "Greens" are sources of nitrogen, a plant nutrient that helps heat up a compost pile by activating the micro life in it. Sources include fresh green weeds, kitchen scraps, manures, cottonseed meal, and blood meal. Invoke the powers of the microbial soil life with a half inch layer of garden soil sprinkled over each "green" layer. When the pile reaches about four feet high, water it well to the consistency of a wrung-out sponge, and let it rot! It will slowly turn into fertilizer that feeds your plants and your soil without interrupting the symbiotic relationship between the two.
When it is done, it will be brown and crumbly. This process can take from two weeks to six months. If you're in a hurry, you can speed things up by turning it every week. To turn a pile, remove the top and outside layers and put them on the ground beside the pile. Then continue with the next layers until you've turned it upside down while fluffing it to let it breathe.
If the pile smells bad, or if flies are taking an interest in it, then turn the pile, incorporate more "browns," make sure it's not soggy cover it in the rain , and cover the top of the heap with an inch of soil or hay to eliminate the problem and disapproving looks from neighbors. Finished compost is used as a fertilizer and mulch around and under plants. Diseased plants and weeds with seeds require hot compost, one that reaches degrees. This technique is best left to more experienced practitioners who are more adept at its mysteries. Use these plant materials as erosion control far from the garden, burn them, or if necessary, dispose of them in the regular garbage.
Meanwhile, train yourself in hot compost magic through the recommended reading 2 , intuition, and experience. Nearly all organic forms of nitrogen, like those used in making compost, contain varying amounts of phosphorus, potassium, and trace minerals.
The Witch's Garden (episode)/Transcript | Adventure Time Wiki | FANDOM powered by Wikia
Composting ingredients that contain high percentages of these nutrients will improve your end fertilizer. Trace minerals can be derived from plants with literally rock breaking, carrot-like tap roots that explore 25 feet or more down into the Earth. These plants include dandelions, alfalfa, comfrey, and plantain. Harvest their leaves as a "green" and let the roots put forth new leaves for the next compost pile.
The older the plant, the better the fertilizer, as the roots have probed even deeper into the Earth. Phosphorus and potassium are present in most crop residues and manures, but you may need to supplement your soil or compost with additional sources. Your local extension service can provide information on soil tests that help determine what amendments will improve your soil's nutrient levels. These tests can be costly, but if problems arise they will guide you in restoring soil balance. Greensand, rock phosphate not superphosphate that damages earthworms and other soil life , crushed granite and glacier rock are all good sources.
You can apply them directly to the garden bed according to package directions, or to the compost pile with a handful between each layer. The amendments come in various packages and if you can't find them locally, sources are listed at the end of the article. Compost has nitrogen in it, but additional sources may also be desired. The same manures used in compost can be applied directly to the soil.
Do this several weeks prior to planting to give the manure time to mellow. Cover crops are grown exclusively to feed the soil with nitrogen and other nutrients. When mature, they are tilled under, and the soil life transforms them into fertilizer. Life is provided for by death. Every cover crop has different amounts and types of nutrients. Wheat, oats, calendula, buckwheat, and legumes are all common cover crops. Legumes are most often used because they are a group of plants such as clover, beans, and peas that "fix" nitrogen.
They have a symbiotic relationship with a type of soil life known as nematodes. These beneficial nematodes take nitrogen from the air and "fix" it to the legume's roots. They look like tiny white potatoes clinging to the root system. They release nitrogen to the plant, helping it thrive.
When the crop of legumes is tilled into the soil, it becomes a time release fertilizer as plants and nematodes break down again. The following tips will also help to create your bewitching garden. These methods can be used in any garden, in sun or shade, and can be started any time of the year with Spring and Summer being ideal.
The Witch's Garden
Raised beds save water, compost, and amendments that are only used where the plants grow and not in paths. Crops can be grown closer together which saves space. You do not need to use the "space between rows" recommendation from seed packets since rows are not used. Only the "space between plants" recommendation is needed. The leaves shade the soil to further reduce weeding and watering chores. Make beds wide enough to reach across comfortably 4 ft.
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Raised beds drain well to allow plants to develop healthy root systems, and they solve rot problems in packed clay soil. They also warm faster in the spring for earlier planting and remain unpacked from foot traffic that would otherwise choke oxygen from roots and spread disease. If you use concrete blocks or railroad ties, your bed supports can provide a convenient resting spot. Concrete blocks may leach into the soil making it more alkaline and most railroad ties are treated with creosote or other preservatives that are toxic.
There are sawmills in our area anyway that will supply you with untreated lumber. A better choice is to try a stone wall if possible.
The Witch’s Garden
Make paths wide enough so that you can walk side by side with your friend or partner without breaking off plants. Weeding and water requirements are kept to a minimum by mulching. Use compost, straw, hay, woodchips, color-free newspaper, or special mulch papers. All of these sources will slowly decompose, conditioning the soil and slowly feeding the plants. Mulch will also save your plants when you are low on compost. The garden is a sacred space and rain is its consecrated cleansing.
It should have solitude during this purifying time. Mud on shoes or wet skin and tools can spread diseases normally not as easily transported without moisture. If you wish to accompany the garden in this cleansing, do so quietly and meditatively.
If you have urgent work to do, limit your areas of activity and avoid touching plants. Many of us enjoy spending time in the garden while it is recharging in the rain.
This does not mean that you shouldn't connect with your garden friend at this time, only to do so in a respectful way. Being aware of the possibilities of disease transmission will help you to prevent it from happening when you join the rain festivities. Your garden's first year of withdrawing from chemical dependency may be severe because the soil life is insufficient to transform its components into nutrients. However, after the first year, it will flourish and the trouble is worth it.